We were in Tromsø, Norway, to try to see the Northern Lights (Aurora Borealis). Since seeing the aurora is not a given, as it depends on cloudless skies and solar activity we went for a weeklong trip. So we had to fill the days with fun activities.
Malte suggested a hike with an overnight stay at a hut. He picked a route of about 22 miles with the hut in the middle. The starting point and ending point were easily accessible by bus. [Tromsø and vincinity has a very efficient bus network].
Day 1 (11.17 miles/2,352 ft gain; 18 km/715 m gain)
We took the bus to Snarbyeidet snuplass where we were dropped on a completly iced over parking lot. From there, we hiked about 4km to a hut on a track that was hard-packed by all the snowshoe, ski, and snowmobile traffic. Only a few tracks continued past the hut. So we put our snowshoes on and continued. Pretty soon, we were on a route without any visible tracks. It was a new experience for me to walk in terrain where it was impossible in some places to make out the angles of the terrain.
We had great weather with the sun on us almost all the time. The low sun and therefore long shadows all day long up here above 69° are something one has to get used to. We encountered various types of snow, ice, ice layers on snow, etc. For a good part of day 1, we also had some pretty strong wind blowing. The views of the big, white, open areas with snow-covered mountains all around us was simply stunning.
When we reached the hut (Blåkollkoia), we were the only visitors for the night. So we had to get the oven going to warm up the place and to melt some snow for water. A nearby creek was inaccessible to us due to unstable snow banks. Once the room warmed up we cooked out dinner in the fully equipped kitchen.
Day 2 (10.74 miles/1,962 ft; 17.3 km/598 m)
When we got up the cabin had cooled down to 5 C. Getting the stove started, warming up the place, and then removing any coals before we leave would have taken too long. So we just put on some extra layers and prepared our breakfast of hot coffee and hazelnut muesli with yogurt. After doing the dishes, sweeping the place, and putting everything in it’s place, we went on our way.
The incredible landscape continued and so did the sunny weather. We had a great day hiking towards Tromsø. Once we reached the first neighborhood we found a bus station and went on our journey home.
About the huts
Along the way we passed 3 more huts, all maintained by Den Norske Turistforening (DNT). They differ in size, but all (?) have the basics for a comfortable stay: equipped kitchen, beds with blankets, a wood stove, pit toilet, etc. We passed one hut at about 12km on day 1 that was closed due to a fire 3 years ago. We got to chat with one of the volunteers working on the repairs. In addition to talking about the hut, she inquired about our route and made sure we were properly preared (gear, reservation of a spot in the hut we intended to visit). Malte has stayed in a number of these huts over the years and always enjoyed it. I can see why.
Video showing some wind effects
what a year of experiences you’ve had.